Colour Theory

By Amber

It is important to have some knowledge of colour theory when working within the nail industry, after all we are decorators as well as manicurists and nail technicians. Clients will often choose a polish colour they are attracted to rather than a colour which complements their skin tone.

The wrong colour against some skin tones can make people look sallow, ruddy or even ill. On the other hand some can make the skin look radiant and healthy and camouflage any skin imperfections.

When choosing colours take into account the colour of your client’s clothes and accessories, make-up, hair colour and skin tone (look on the inside of the wrist for best idea). Also consider their hand condition and age as some colours can help to disguise lines and wrinkles, whereas others will accentuate them.

If someone has short bitten nails, then applying a bright red polish will draw attention to the length and condition and make them look cheap. You may want to try a paler colour, this will give the illusion of length or even try a French polish with a deep smile line as this will make them look longer than they are.

A colour specialist uses many colour swatches to match colours to a clients skin tone, then puts them into what is know as a colour season:

Spring
These people have fair complexions usually with gold undertones and maybe some freckles. Their skin type can vary greatly from creamy or peachy to very pale beige. Using yellow based colours will add warmth and make the skin look radiant and healthy. Avoid colours that will clash with the yellow base such as deep reds with blue tones.

Summer
These skin types have blue tones but usually with a pink or pinkie beige hue. Avoid yellow based colours as these can emphasise any fine veins and capillaries, and make the skin look unclean. It is advisable to avoid gold’s and oranges and choose softer colours than for winter but with the same base blue tone.

Autumn
Usually seen on a redhead, warmer colours are suited to this type of skin. Use strong colours such as yellow or gold based browns, terracotta, peach and bronzes as these will even out the skin tone. Avoid colours like red and purple and blue based pinks.

Winter
Winter tones have a yellow or blue cast to the skin and can be extremely varied. If the client is yellow-based using polishes of the same colour will give them a sallow effect, using blue tones instead will soften the yellow. Both cooler and more vibrant colours can be used, but browns, gold’s and orangey reds should be avoided.

There will always be people who fall in between these categories; it is best to choose the polish colour which suits them the most if this occurs. The three primary colours are red, blue and yellow. Secondary colours are orange (a mixture of red and yellow), green (a mixture of blue and yellow) and purple (a mixture of red and blue).